Archive for the ‘ Other ’ Category

Which Oil? Engine and Gearbox

Valvoline SynPower 5w-40

Valvoline SynPower 5w-40

Engine Oil:

One question we are often asked with regards to turbocharged engines is which oil should be used?

There are many choices of oil on the market, and different people will give you different answers as to which is best and why.

For Pre-2011 Vauxhall/Opel cars the OE spec for oil is LL-A-025/LL-B-025 (Petrol/Diesel). For 2011 on models this spec has been replaced by GM Dexos2™ spec. Dexos2™ spec oil is backwards compatible.

Our advice for pre-2011 Vauxhall/Opel petrol 2.0 Turbo and 1.6 Turbo engines fitted with K03/K04/K06 turbo units is to use a high quality fully synthetic engine oil with a viscocity of 5w-40 for fast road and track day use, which meets or exceeds API:SM SN/CF and ACEA A3/B4 classifications. This can also be used in engines fitted with Garrett or similar turbo conversions.

Our suggested choice is Valvoline SynPower 5w-40 Fully Synthetic Engine Oil which we run in our road and trackday cars and which we have also run in Astra H VXR race cars without issue. Millers Engine Oil is another suggestion for high quality oil; one of many oils available. For more spirited use the Millers CFS 5w-40 NT+ is a good choice.

It is suggested for engines used for hard use that oil temperature and useage are constantly monitored which will identify if a different grade of oil is required.

2011 onwards engines require a high quality oil meeting Dexos2™ spec, according to the factory..

The key is to use a high quality fully synthetic oil and to keep the oil in turbocharged engines changed regularly. On modified cars it is sensible to ignore the extended drain intervals that manufacturers suggest and stick to more frequent changes. Oil that is changed regularly keeps an engine clean. Our recommendation is 5,000 mile change intervals for a turbocharged engine, especially for cars experiencing hard use, but at for cars covering 7,500-10,000 miles at least an annual oil change is recommended. We do not recommend exceeding 10,000 miles between oil changes.

Gearbox Oil:

For manual gearboxes such as M32, F23, F40, F20 we suggest the use of a high quality fully synthetic gearbox oil, viscocity 75w-90.

CRX NT+ 75w-90

CRX NT+ 75w-90

Our choice is Millers CRX NT+ 75w-90 for fast road and also for trackday use where higher gearbox oil temperatures may be sustained. It is suitable for gearboxes fitted with a geared LSD such as Quaife or Wavetrac.

Where an M32 or F40 gearbox has a factory fitted Drexler plate type LSD use the Millers CRX NT+ 75w-90 LS Spec gearbox oil, which has a special additive for use with a plate type differential.

CRX NT+ LS 75w-90

CRX NT+ LS 75w-90

If in doubt please check your individual gearbox requirements for oil, or contact us.

Again with gearbox oil it is always worthwhile considering regular oil changes, especially on the M32 gearbox where a 20,000 mile oil change will do no harm.

EBC GD Sport Discs

Over the next few months EBC GD Sport Discs will change from gold to black. The current gold coating is being phased out and will be replaced by a Black GEOMET coating, which is a new long lasting corrosion resistant finish.

This means that over the next few months the traditional gold finished EBC discs will be replaced with black coated discs. They will still be manufactured to the same high standards.

GD Discs - Gold and New Black Finish

GD Discs – Gold and New Black Finish

KW Salt Test

What makes KW so good? Apart from their build quality, assembly process, attention to detail and technical support?

Their durability and resistance to rust, meaning KW coilovers continue to work, unlike cheaper competitors where spring perches corrode onto the struts making adjustment impossible.

All KW coilovers are made using high quality and perfectly matching components and materials. So both their renowned racing applications for international motorsports benefit, but also your KW coilovers for the road.

All KW coilovers, Variant 1, Variant 2, Variant 3, Street Comfort and the adaptive KW DDC coilovers from the KW iSuspension range are made from stainless steel. Whether the strut or the trapezoid thread or the vehicle-specific connections – KW only use stainless steel. KW stainless steel “inox-line” coilovers in conjunction with corrosion-resistant springs and elastomers stand for a long-term driving pleasure.

  • Highly corrosion-resistant
  • Unsurpassed quality
  • No signs of wear at the adjustment mechanism – also during long use
  • Trapezoid thread in stainless steel eases height-adjustment
  • Perfect look – permanently
  • High load tolerance

How resistant to rust are the KW coilovers “inox line”?
KW wanted to know precisely and therefore worked together with the Fachhochschule (University of Applied Sciences) Esslingen. The chemists and engineers of the FH tested the KW coilover struts made of stainless steel. So in total nine coilover struts from six different manufacturers went through a quality check.

The image shows the results which speak for themselves:

KW Salt Test Comparison.

KW Salt Test Comparison.

Some additional test pictures:

KW Salt Test Start

KW Salt Test Start

KW Salt Test Finish

KW Salt Test Finish

The final image by is referenced from an article by Mike Garrett on www.speedhunters.com from an interview with Michael Grassl from KW’s Motorsport Sales and Technical Support department. You can read the full article on the wesbite >>>> Ask The Expert: KW Answers Your Questions

KW Salt Test Dampers

KW Salt Test Dampers

Now Accepting AmEx and PayPal

Courtenay Sport are please to announce that we are now accepting American Express cards online and at our premises and PayPal for online purchases.

Now Accepting Online: Now Accepting On Our Premises:

American Express Logo

American Express

PayPal Logo

PayPal

American Express Logo

American Express

How Waterless Coolant Works.

Water is an excellent fluid for cooling whilst in a liquid state, but when water turns to steam it has virtually no capacity for heat transfer. Evans is a superior fluid for transferring heat in engines because it remains in a liquid state until above 180°C. This article details the benefits of a significantly higher boiling point.

Within an engine cooling system the hottest surfaces are those adjacent to the combustion chamber, specifically the cylinder liners and cylinder head. In these hot spots water is likely to vaporise preventing efficient cooling and causing loss of performance and unnecessary engine damage. When the coolant fails in this way the engine becomes even hotter causing more hot spots and more steam.

Evans waterless coolants will not boil around these engine hotspots maintaining efficient cooling performance even when the engine is put under extreme conditions. When water turns to steam it pressurises the cooling system putting strain on hoses and other components. The significantly higher boiling point of Evans coolants means 75% less pressure than water resulting in a less stressed cooling system.

Water contains oxygen which causes corrosion and also allows electrolytic activity which further damages engine metals (chemical limitations of water). Evans waterless coolants eliminate corrosion and electrolytic activity significantly increasing the life of the engine.

Nucleate Boiling

Nucleate Boiling

Traditional water based coolants regularly cross the thermal boundary that separates efficient Nucleate Boiling (A) from inefficient Critical Heat Flux (CHF). CHF is synonymous with the condition ‘Departure from Nucleate Boiling’ (DNB). When DNB occurs, a layer of steam bubbles form adjacent to the engine hot spots (B).

Steam dissipates less than 1/30th of the heat that water does, rapidly over-heating local metal, causing premature detonation. The high boiling point of Evans Waterless Coolants, such as Power Cool 180, prevents DNB providing more efficient cooling in engine hot spots.

Convert your car to Waterless Engine Coolant:

Do you have a Hotmail, MSN or Live email account??

If you have any of the following types of email accounts from the likes of Hotmail, MSN, Live, Gmail, Googlemail, Yahoo then please please please check your spam folder for emails if you have been in contact with us.

It has become apparent over the last few months that Microsoft web-based email accounts especially, but also certain others, are placing any email correspondence from us into the spam folder.

If you have contacted us by email, or ordered something online and have not received a reply or an order confirmation from us please check your spam folder, and make sure our email addresses are added to your safe senders’ list.

Big Brake Kits – Caliper Maintenance

Preventative Maintenance is always more cost effective in the long term as it prevents smaller issues from becoming more major problems. Take for example ‘Big Brake Kits’ which are now more commonly fitted on road cars and feature 4 pot, 6 pot and 8 pot calipers.

These calipers are aluminium for lightness and strength. Usually they are fitted to race cars which never see any road use and are therefore not subjected to the same harsh environment as cars that are used on the road. Salt and aluminium do not mix well, and will over time cause corrosion. Race cars never experience this phenomena.

Regular checking and maintenance of this type of brake caliper is essential. Race cars frequently have pads removed, inspected, replaced and calipers are cleaned regularly, but road cars do not have quite the same ‘affection’ lavished upon them.

Take for example the K Sport 8 pot calipers. We have seen a few instances with some of these calipers where salt from over-winter use has penetrated under the pad sliders causing them to lift and so in turn if left the pad can seize in the caliper – even calipers that are painted or anodised can suffer. With this in mind it is always a sensible precaution to inspect these brakes after winter to clear away traces of salt and corrosion, and also a pre-winter check will pay dividends too.

Remove the pads to check they are not seizing into the calipers. If there is corrosion evident then the upper and lower sliders will need to be removed. This is easier to do with the caliper on a workbench, so remove the brake hose from the caliper (take care with brake fluid leaking) and the caliper from the car. Remove the upper and lower sliders, clean around and underneath them to remove traces of any dirt and/or corrosion, clean the sliders using a wire wheel, coat both the sliders and their seats with some high temperature anti-seize aluminium spray, such as Wurth AL1100, as this will help to prevent further salt ingress and over winter corrosion. It will also help keep the pads moving freely in the calipers. Refit the calipers, brake lines and reassemble with the pads, assuming they are serviceable. Replace the pads if required, then bleed thoroughly.

When carrying out this work you will also need to have 8 x M6 x 1.0 x 12mm A2 button head stainless steel screws available, which retain the sliders. The ones fitted in the KS calipers from factory are prone to corroding and the heads rust. This can make them difficult to remove if the heads round off, meaning additional labour time, effort and frustration to get them out!!

Whilst this will take a few hours to do properly, it is more than worth it – leaving it until the pads seize will only mean a nightmare of a job later on down the line.

Courtenay Sport Key Rings

Courtenay Sport Key Ring.

A black simulated leather key ring with metal surround and a high quality Dome Resin Courtenay Sport Logo in Silver on a black background, giving a 3D look.

Measures approximately 84mm x 28mm (excludes ring) Overall Length approximately 106mm

£5.50 Now Available from our Online Web Shop. Buy Now Click Here!
This link will take you away from our blog and directly to our Web Shop.

Courtenay Sport Key Rings

Courtenay Sport Key Rings

The Courtenay Sport Blog

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